Daily morphological changes determined by high‐energy events on an embayed beach: a qualitative model     

Cristina Celia Martins  Michel Michaelovitch de Mahiques  João Manuel Alveirinho Dias 《地球表面变化过程与地形》2010,35(4):487-495

This paper examines the daily morphological responses of Sununga Beach, an embayed beach located on the south‐eastern Brazilian coast, to storms in the South Atlantic Ocean. The main mechanisms and timing of beach erosion and accretion, the relationship between wave height and direction, and beach volume changes are considered, to establish a qualitative model for short‐term embayed beach morphological changes. The methodology consisted of daily topographic surveys during the month of May in 2001, 2002, and 2003, using an RTK‐GPS (real‐time kinematics – global positioning system). Weather and wave model results were used to correlate hydrodynamics and beach morphology. The results indicate that the morphodynamics of Sununga Beach are characterized by a process of beach rotation, which occurred more or less clearly during all three surveys. Unlike what has been commonly described in the literature for longer time intervals and alternations of fair and stormy weather, the beach rotation processes on Sununga Beach occurred under conditions of moderate‐to‐high wave energy change (wave heights greater than 2 m). An integrated evaluation of the behaviour of the meteorological aspects, together with beach morphology, enabled us to recognize that extra‐tropical cyclones were the most important agent in remobilizing the beach planform, whether in beach rotation or in cross‐shore erosion. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

Source-area controls on the composition of beach and fluvial sands on the southern side of the Gibraltar Strait and Western Alboran Sea (Flysch Basin, Internal and External, Domains, Northern Rif Chain)     

M.N. Zaghloul  H. Reddad  S. Critelli 《Journal of African Earth Sciences》2009,55(1-2):36

The southern side of Gibraltar and the Western Alboran Sea of the northern Rif coasts and rivers provide a natural field laboratory for sampling modern sand at different scales: small catchment basins (first order) and rivers draining mountain belts (second order). The Rifian chain represents a deformed and uplifted thrust-belt and related forelands composed of Palaeozoic nappes, metamorphic and plutonic basement, and their sedimentary Mesozoic and Cenozoic siliciclastic and carbonate cover, respectively. The present physiography of the Rif Chain is shaped by a rugged mountainous relief drained by different scale catchment basins that supply the nearby coastal and marine deep-sea environments. The analysis of the composition of modern fluvial and beach sands is useful for the interpretation of transported sediments by surface processes from the continent toward coasts and later to deep-water environments.Modern beach and fluvial sands of the southern side of Gibraltar and the Western Alboran Sea display three distinct petrologic littoral provinces, from the east to the west and from the north to the south, respectively, designated as: (i) the Tangier–Bel Younech Littoral Province with 90% of sand derived from erosion of Flysch Nappes (Flysch Basin Domain); (ii) the Bel Younech–Sebta Littoral Province with 64% of sand fed mainly by the metamorphic Units of Upper Sebtides and (iii) the Sebta–Ras Mazari Littoral Province with 74% of sand supplied from the epimetamorphic Palaeozoic Ghomaride Nappes and Alpine cover rather than Mesozoic and Cenozoic sedimentary successions of the “Dorsale Calcaire” Units. Comparison of detrital modes of fluvial and coastal marine environments highlights their dispersal pathways and drainage patterns of actualistic sand petrofacies.  相似文献   

南海北部晚全新世高海平面及其波动的海滩沉积证据          下载免费PDF全文

余克服  陈特固 《地学前缘》2009,16(6):138

揭示晚全新世以来的海平面变化过程对于理解海平面所处的现状和变化的趋势等具有重要意义。构造活动相对稳定的雷州半岛珊瑚礁区蕴藏着丰富的海平面变化信息,文中对该区晚全新世发育的海滩沉积序列研究表明,距今约1.7～1.2Cal.kaBP(14C年代为2.1～1.7kaBP)期间总体上是一个海平面持续上升的时期,其中在距今约1.5Cal.kaBP时海平面有过短暂的下降波动,约1.2Cal.kaBP时的海平面比现在的至少高128cm;之后海平面开始下降,至今海岸线后退了约210m,形成现代海滩-沙堤地貌体系。结合本区珊瑚礁记录的全新世其他时段海平面的变化特征,本文认为全新世海平面与气候变化一样,也存在千年、百年、年代际尺度的波动特征。  相似文献   

Erosive water level regime and climatic variability forcing of beach–dune systems on south‐western Vancouver Island,British Columbia,Canada     

Derek K. Heathfield  Ian J. Walker  David E. Atkinson 《地球表面变化过程与地形》2013,38(7):751-762

Increases in the frequency and magnitude of extreme water levels and storm surges are correlated with known indices of climatic variability (CV), including the El Niño Southern Oscillation (ENSO) and the Pacific Decadal Oscillation (PDO), along some areas of the British Columbia coast. Since a shift to a positive PDO regime in 1977, the effects of ENSO events have been more frequent, persistent, and intense. Teleconnected impacts include more frequent storms, higher surges, and enhanced coastal erosion. The response of oceanographic forcing mechanisms (i.e. tide, surge, wave height, wave period) to CV events and their role in coastal erosion remain unclear, particularly in western Canada. As a first step in exploring the interactions between ocean–atmosphere forcing and beach–dune responses, this paper assembles the historic erosive total water level (TWL) regime and explores relations with observed high magnitude storms that have occurred in the Tofino‐Ucluelet region (Wickaninnish Bay) on the west coast of Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada. Extreme events where TWL exceeded an erosional threshold (i.e. elevation of the beach–foredune junction) of 5·5 m aCD are examined to identify dominant forcing mechanisms and to classify a regime that describes erosive events driven principally by wave conditions (61·5%), followed by surge (21·8%), and tidal (16·7%) effects. Furthermore, teleconnections between regional CV phenomena, extreme storm events and, by association, coastal erosion, are explored. Despite regional sea level rise (eustatic and steric), rapid crustal uplift rates have resulted in a falling relative sea level and, in some sedimentary systems, shoreline progradation at rates approaching +1·5 m a^–1 over recent decades. Foredune erosion occurs locally with a recurrence interval of approximately 1·53 years followed by rapid rebuilding due to high onshore sand supply and often in the presence of large woody debris and rapidly colonizing vegetation in the backshore. Copyright © 2012 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

A tracer study in an Alaskan gravel beach and its implications on the persistence of the Exxon Valdez oil   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  

Li H  Boufadel MC 《Marine pollution bulletin》2011,62(6):1261-1269

Despite great efforts including bioremediation, the 1989 Exxon Valdez oil spills persist in many gravel beaches in Prince William Sound, Alaska, USA. To explore this mystery, a lithium tracer study was conducted along two transects on one of these beaches. The tracer injections and transports were successfully simulated using the 2-dimensional numerical model MARUN. The tracer stayed much longer in the oil-persisting, right transect (facing landwand) than in the clean, left transect. If the tracer is approximately regarded as oils, oils in the upper layer would have more opportunities to enter the lower layer in the right transect than in the left one. This may qualitatively explain the oil persistence within the right transect. When the tracer is regarded as nutrients, the long stay of nutrients within the right transect implies that the oil persistence along the right transect was not due to the lack of nutrients during the bioremediation.  相似文献   

碳酸盐岩成岩相研究方法及其应用——以扬子地块北缘飞仙关组鲕滩储层为例   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

杨威  魏国齐  金惠  沈珏红 《岩石学报》2011,27(3):749-756

成岩相是研究成岩作用展布的重要方法和途径,其与沉积相不同,反映岩石在一定的成岩环境下发生的各种成岩作用的综合表现。在详细的成岩作用和成岩环境研究的基础上,划分了扬子地块北缘地区飞仙关组8类成岩相、7类成岩亚相,总结了各类成岩相(亚相)的识别标志,探索了成岩相与沉积相、测井相、地震相的关系,探索了成岩相在点、线、面上的分布,预测了有利成岩相区展布,取得了良好效果。形成了一套有效的成岩相研究方法,并将成岩相研究成果应用到勘探实践,具有较好的推广价值。  相似文献   

川西北地区下三叠统飞仙关组滩相储层的形成条件分析     

崔卫东 《地质与资源》2011,20(1):56-61

鲕粒滩相碳酸盐岩作为储层的气藏是川西北地区下三叠统飞仙关组地层中最主要的气藏类型.影响飞仙关组滩相储层形成的条件较多,主要受构造作用、沉积作用和成岩作用的影响.分析认为同生断裂导致的地貌升降运动对滩体的展布有着明显的控制作用,上升盘边缘易于滩体的形成与演化;高能沉积相带的台地边缘鲕粒滩最有利于储层的形成与演化;经过白云...  相似文献   

Measured and modeled wave overtopping on a natural beach     

Natalie A. Laudier  Edward B. ThorntonJamie MacMahan 《Coastal Engineering》2011

The rate of wave overtopping of a barrier beach is measured and modeled. Unique rate of wave overtopping field data are obtained from the measure of the Carmel River, California, lagoon filling during a time when the lagoon is closed-off with no river inflow. Volume changes are based on measured lagoon height changes applied to a measured hypsometric curve. Wave heights and periods are obtained from directional wave spectra data in 15 m fronting the beach. Beach morphology was measured by GPS walking surveys. Three empirical overtopping models by Van der Meer and Janssen (1995), Hedges and Reis (1998) and Pullen et al. (2007) with differing parameterizations on wave height, period and beach slope and calibrated using extensive laboratory data obtained over plane, impermeable beaches are applied in a quasi-2D manner and compared with the field observations. Three overtopping events are considered when morphology data were available less than 2 weeks prior to the event. The models are tuned to fit the data using a reduction factor to account for beach permeability, berm characteristics, non-normal wave incidence and surface roughness influence. In addition, the run-up model by Stockdon et al. (2006) based on field data is examined and found to underestimate run-up as the calculated values were too small to predict any of the observed overtopping. The three overtopping models performed similarly well with values of 0.72–0.87 for the two narrow-banded wave cases, with an average reduction factor of 0.78. The European model (Pullen et. al., 2007) performed best overall and in particular for the case of the broad-banded, double peaked wave spectrum.  相似文献   

Appraisal of storm beach buffer width for cyclonic waves     

F.-C. Lee  John R.-C. Hsu  W.-H. Lin 《Coastal Engineering》2011

The loss of beach sand from berm and dune due to high waves and surge is a universal phenomenon associated with sporadic storm activities. To protect the development in a coastal hazard zone, hard structures or coastal setback have been established in many countries around the world. In this paper, the requirement of a storm beach buffer, being a lesser extent landward comparing with the coastal setback to ensure the safety of infrastructures, is numerically assessed using the SBEACH model for three categories of wave conditions in terms of storm return period, median sand grain size, berm width, and design water level. Two of the key outputs from the numerical calculations, berm retreat and bar formation offshore, are then analysed, as well as beach profile change. After having performed a series of numerical studies on selected large wave tank (LWT) test results with monochromatic waves using SBEACH, we may conclude that: (1) Berm erosion increases and submerged bar develops further offshore as the storm return period increases for beach with a specific sand grain size, or as the sand grain reduces on a beach under the action of identical wave condition; (2) Higher storm waves yield a large bar to form quicker and subsequently cause wave breaking on the bar crest, which can reduce the wave energy and limit the extent of the eroding berm; (3) A larger buffer width is required for a beach comprising small sand grain, in order to effectively absorb storm wave energy; and (4) Empirical relationships can be tentatively proposed to estimate the storm beach buffer width, from the input of wave conditions and sediment grain size. These results would benefit a beach nourishment project for shore protection or design of a recreational beach.  相似文献   

山东半岛北岸现代海滩层理及动态解释     

曹立华  栾天  庄振业  李兵  董威力  孙羽涵 《海洋地质前沿》2011,(9):1-5,31

海滩层理由冲、回流塑造的向海倾前滨楔状交错层理和冲越流形成的向陆倾后滨斜层理组成,二者构成假背斜构造.近年在烟台—莱州岸段海滩上开挖了10个垂岸探槽,揭示出这里海滩以向陆倾后滨层理为主,并且被暴风浪侵蚀面所斜切,该面向海的前滨层理只留下几十厘米的薄层,说明近几十年海岸持续遭受侵蚀,海滩的前滨层理被多次暴风浪切割掉;按暴...  相似文献